Architecure Meets ... the Helmut Lang Fall 2010 Collection

Helmut Lang's designing duo Nicole and Michael Colovos directly acknowledged the architectural influence on their Fall collection for the minimalist label. Urban expansion, as in building modern structures on top of historic ones, was their main inspiration. The orginial Lang, an Austrian born designer who ahs not been affilaited with his namesake brand since 2005, gained popularity throughout the 80s for his deconstructivist (some call it severe) aesthetic. It seems architecture has been a muse to the label in the beginning and continues to be today, even through numerous corporate acquisitions and a revolving door of head designers.



In particular, for this collection the Helmut Lang designers looked at the work of Santiago Calatrava. It is evident what they drew from in the the ways they, according to Style.com "... built up their shearling- or rabbit-collared, cropped, and fitted jackets with arching swatches of texturized wool, blistered leather, and neoprene... Likewise, the organic prints on their draped silk dresses were engineered to make the most of a woman's natural curves, while the tone-on-tone sequins of jersey dresses followed the sinew lines of the body."

Calatrava's work is all about motion and organics. He mixes concrete with glass to create fantasically curved and flowing structures that move with the wind (case in point, the Milwaukee Art Museum). His work is all about layers and support that, while simple and sleek, are effortlessly complex and unexpected at the same time. As the Helmut Lang designers use technology to create chic and modern designs, from laser cut skirts to twsting dresses, Calatrava employs technical savvy as well for his larger than life creations. Sweeping overhangs of reinforced concrete (See his Tenerife Opera House Below), invoke all the emotions of fluidity and easy motion, while employing serious engineering know-how. Like with the Lang collection, the clothes at first look seem to work together so well and easily, but in fact is composed of layers and precise application. Unlike with the Viktor & Rolf collection, Helmut Lang takes inspiration from the theory behind Calatrava's work. While their clothes may not take on literal resemblances, all the ideas are there - reworked in ready to wear, street friendly options.